50 replies to this topic

[kwaispro727]

My trigger problem (SR10) is back, and it's here to stay until I can figure out what's wrong with it.  What it does is slightly hard to explain, so bare with me.  My brother posted this for me yesterday in the Community General area... I don't think that's where this really should go so...  He also mixed up a few things I think...

As I was firing in semi-auto while fine tuning my scope yesterday, I noticed the trigger was becoming slightly (like barely noticeable) harder to pull.  I didn't pay much attention to it because it hadn't done anything of the kind for a while.  I kept on shooting in semi-auto, and then switched to full-auto to do some bursts.  After about 3-5 bursts the trigger tightened up qutie a bit.  As described in previous posts it began to have two stages.  After about another 2 or 3 bursts it reached it's "peak" in how the trigger tightens.

Exactly what it does is this.  In SEMI-AUTO, when you pull the trigger the first half of the way there is some resistance.  Once you get past that you hit a "hard spot" about half way, right before the gun should normally be firing.  That is the first stage, during which the gun will fire in full-auto (it also seems to begin firing way to early in the pull) unless the trigger is pulled fast enough, at which point the first stage is bipassed completely, except for the "hard spot" which is still very noticeable.  Right after the hard spot it will fire semi-auto normally.  In FULL-AUTO, what happens is exactly the same, except the gun functions in full-auto all of the time instead of semi and full.  In both firing modes, the gun begins to fire early, before reaching the "hard point".

The motor seems to heat up very quickly.  I can feel the warmth through the grip and it's almost hot after about 700-800 rds.

Sorry for the over-usage of "trigger" and "pull".  Hopefully someone has experienced this or atleast has some clue what I'm talking about.

[vanevery]

Can you do a very brief recap as to what you did to fix this problem previously.
This is the same problem you had before, right?
If my memory serves me correctly, you did get this fixed at one point.

[kwaispro727]

Before my thumb had been bumping the selector switch forward slightly.  That seemed to be the only problem but apparently not, as I literally stared at the selector switch while shooting for atleast a few minutes.  I forgot to mention that if the gun is left unfired for about an hour or so it will go away, but when I begin shooting after that time period is comes right back again.

[niko_gpsy]

At this point an internal examination of the GB may be in order. Areas to check are the trigger block, cutoff lever, trigger switch assembly and the trigger itself. The fix maybe as simple as reseating the trigger and spring but still have to go in to the gearbox.

[kwaispro727]

Well that brings me to another problem.  I can't get to the gearbox.  I can separate the receivers easily, but the pin holding the gearbox in place won't budge.  Any ideas on how to get it out?

[superfrog]

Small Philips head screw driver.  Also you may have trigger contact issues.

[kwaispro727]

I got the pin out.  I just put it back in.  I won't have time to open it up completely until the weekend.This is only my fourth time opening up a gearbox, but I want to do whatever I can by myself for experience.  Seems like the only way to learn is through messing stuff up and fixing it yourself.  What specifically should I be looking for inside the gearbox?

[niko_gpsy]

I guess you would be looking for breakage first if any exists since it would be the easiest to identify.  Then look for unusal or excessive wear on the parts I have listed above.  Finally make sure everything is in the correct place and configuration.  If you do not notice any of this you may just need to take the trigger off and reseat.  This maybe all that is needed.

[kwaispro727]

I know the parts of the gearbox but I don't know all their technical names... Could you explain what the first three are?  (trigger block, cutoff lever, switch assembly)

I had some free time today to work on getting it open down to the gearbox.  Once you get the buffer tube screw out, the wiring in the buffertube and the gearbox are separate, and joined together inside.  After I get the rubber stuff off around where they plug into eachother, do I need to put anything over it again when I plug them back together?  Heres what I mean if I wasn't clear.
[attachment=795:Photo on 3-21-12 at 4.39 PM.jpg]

Edited by kwaispro727, 21 March 2012 - 12:38 PM.

[niko_gpsy]

Those parts are listed on the owner's manual.  So you should look through your manual and become familiar with what they look like.  It will make your life easier.
And you can just slip some heat shrink over those connections when reassembling.

[kwaispro727]

I just ran out of heat shrink.  Will electrical tape work also?

[gcw360]

kwaispro727, on 21 March 2012 - 05:24 PM, said:

I just ran out of heat shrink.  Will electrical tape work also?

Get heat shrink....you'll be glad you did.  Eventually you will be able to take it all down without removing the heat-shrink and disconnecting the rear wire harness.  Sounds like a PITA but it actually is easier IMO when it comes to reassembly of the gun.

[kwaispro727]

Ok.  I have yet another problem, and I still havn't opened up the gearbox LOL.  I disconnected all the wires, pulled out the two body pins, but the one pin in the middle will not come all the way out.  The gearbox wiggles a tiny bit but won't come out eithor.  Is the pin a "never-lose-pin" or is it just being a pain?  I don't want to force it out if it's not ment to come out.  It didn't come out all the way before.

Edited by kwaispro727, 21 March 2012 - 06:20 PM.

[musicianairsofter]

it's a one way pin..try the other direction

[kwaispro727]

It's most of the way out, but it won't come out the rest of the way.  Heres a pic.  Sorry it's hard to see but when I take it with my camera the file is too big.
[attachment=796:Photo on 3-22-12 at 6.57 PM.jpg]

[niko_gpsy]

Your driving the pin from the wrong side. Drive the pin from the trade mark side.

[kwaispro727]

niko_gpsy, on 22 March 2012 - 03:59 PM, said:

Your driving the pin from the wrong side. Drive the pin from the trade mark side.

Wow I feel like an idiot now haha.  Funny thing though, it would only move when I punched it from that side.

Apparently the 2gx gearboxes are screwed together with star screws... unfortunately I do not own a set of star keys.  Would you happen to know if Home Depot sells them?

Edited by kwaispro727, 22 March 2012 - 04:32 PM.

[gcw360]

Torx T10 bit is what you need.  Home Depot will have them.

[superfrog]

Lowes, ace, and many fine retailers across our great land.  You can pick up a set with these torx and many others with a wratchet  screw driver for less than 10.

[kwaispro727]

Awesome thanks.  I have a theory about the trigger now.  I noticed a lot of metal shavings from filing down the magwell near the trigger.  Could those have possibly invaded my trigger mechanism and done something?